Confused by the rainbow of toning shampoos?
How to Choose Between Purple, Blue, and Black Shampoo…..
Beautifully transitioning into grey—is an empowering experience. However, there is often a steep learning curve when it comes to maintenance. If you’ve ever walked down the hair care aisle and felt completely overwhelmed by the choices of toners, depositing shampoos, and color-correcting formulas, you are certainly not alone.
As someone who has spent years navigating my own hair’s evolving needs, I know the frustration of seeing your expensive salon color turn brassy, dull, or yellow within just a few weeks. We invest time and money into our hair, and we deserve for it to look vibrant for as long as possible. Today, I want to demystify the world of pigmented shampoos. We’re going to break down the differences between purple, blue, and black shampoos, and help you find the perfect match for your hair’s unique, beautiful hue.
Understanding the Color Wheel
Before we dive into the specific shampoos, we have to talk about color theory. It sounds like high school art class, but it’s the secret weapon of every Board Certified Hair Colorist.
Essentially, color correction works by using the color directly opposite your unwanted tone on the color wheel to neutralize it. If you have “warmth” that you don’t like, we look for the color that sits across from it to “cancel it out.” This is why these shampoos are pigmented; they aren’t meant to wash your hair like a regular cleanser, but rather to deposit a sheer veil of color to adjust your tone.
1. Purple Shampoo: The Blonde and Grey Bestie
If you have light-colored hair, you’ve likely heard of purple shampoo. It is the gold standard for anyone with blonde, silver, or white strands.
What it does: Purple is directly opposite yellow on the color wheel. If you have bleached, platinum, or natural grey hair, you might notice that environmental factors like sun exposure, hard water, or heat styling cause your hair to take on a harsh, “butter” yellow hue.
Who it’s for:
Blondes who are beginning to grey and for those who are already grey and want to keep their silver strands looking bright and crisp rather than yellowish.
Anyone with highlights that have started to look a bit “summery” or brassy.
How to use it: Don’t use it every day! Purple shampoo can be drying, and if you use it too often, your hair can actually take on a lavender tint (which, while fun, might not be the look you’re going for). Use it once a week or whenever you notice the yellow tones creeping back in.
2. Blue Shampoo: The Brunette’s Savior
I have many friends who are brunettes who tried purple shampoo, were disappointed, and gave up on color-correcting products entirely. The reason? They were using the wrong color.
What it does: Blue is opposite orange on the color wheel. If you have brown hair and notice that your color is pulling “warm” or turning into a rusty, coppery orange, purple shampoo won’t do a thing. Blue shampoo is designed to neutralize those fiery, orange undertones that brunettes often deal with after lightening their hair or from natural oxidation.
Who it’s for:
Brunettes with lightened hair from highlighting or bleach.
Those with natural brown hair that tends to get “brassy” in the sun.
Anyone whose hair pulls orange rather than yellow.
How to use it: Similar to purple shampoo, this is a maintenance product, not a daily cleanser. Use it once a week, or whenever your brunette locks start looking less “chocolate” and more “copper.”
3. Black Shampoo: The New Kid on the Block
Black (or dark charcoal) shampoo is a newer trend, and it’s one that has completely changed the game for those with dark hair or for those who are currently in the middle of a grey blending process.
What it does: Unlike blue and purple shampoos, which neutralize specific unwanted tones, black shampoo is often depositing a very sheer, dark pigment to add depth, richness, and shine to darker hair. It’s excellent for masking stubborn white or grey hairs that might be popping up in an uneven way, or for simply refreshing faded dark dye.
Who it’s for:
Anyone with dark brown or black hair that has lost its luster.
Clients in the early stages of grey blending who aren’t quite ready to go full silver and want to soften the contrast between their natural pigment and emerging grey hairs.
Professional Product Recommendations
As a Board Certified Hair Colorist and salon owner myself, I always recommend investing in professional products when it comes to color correction. Professional formulas use high quality ingredients and are typically more balanced, meaning they provide the pigment you need without stripping your hair of essential moisture.
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For the Blondes & Greys: Fanola No Yellow Purple Shampoo is legendary. It’s incredibly luxurious and keeps silver tones sparkling without making them dull or dry.
For the Brunettes: Fanola No Orange Shampoo is a powerhouse. It is highly pigmented, so be warned: a little goes a long way, and your shower tiles will thank you if you rinse them well!
For Depth and Grey Blending: Consider Milk Shake Icy Blond Shampoo. It’s a classic for a reason—it adds beautiful cool tones to dark hair and helps bridge the gap between dark roots and lighter ends.
Choosing the right shampoo is about listening to your hair in every stage of life. If you are struggling with your color, don’t feel bad about it. Hair is a science, and even the most seasoned professionals have to adjust their routine as their hair changes over the seasons or as they age, I certainly am.
Whether you are leaning into the freedom of going grey or simply trying to keep your new color balanced, remember that your hair care routine is a form of self-care. Take the time to identify the actual “problem” tone you are seeing in the mirror—is it yellow, orange, or just a lack of luster? Once you name it, you can tame it.
Your hair is a reflection of you, and it deserves to feel, look, and be treated with care. Here’s to finding your perfect shampoo color and loving your hair color every single day.
