The 5 Step Grey Blending Plan
I’ve been grey blending clients for years and I didn’t even know it had a name until recently. Clients come to me so they can quit coloring their roots every 3-6 weeks. Here’s exactly how I handled each and every one.
The consultation. I need to understand why someone is willing to give up the root touch up. Many are tired of the maintenance, some don’t want to spend the money and some have even developed an allergy to permanent hair color.
We discuss what the process will look like for them and start to design a plan. Assuming this person decides they are tired of coming in for root touch ups every 3-6 weeks, this is the plan to soften the line of demarcation and move toward no longer coloring the hair. Depending on the length of the hair and the depth or darkness, we can achieve this in appoximately 18-24 months.
THE PLAN
We need about 2-3 months of new growth to see what the natural grey pattern is. This is a really BIG ask I know, but it is crucial so we don’t end up with “just a highlight”. You must embrace the “messy” stage. The grow out is hard, but if you want to get out of the cycle this is how we do it. Grey hair is simply hair that no longer produces pigment. In doing so we can to match the previously colored hair to the new growth grey pattern.
1.Prep the hair. I always use a mineral remover to begin any color correcting service. Grey blending and grey transformations are color corrective services because you are not maintaining your previous color treatment.
I use Malibu C Undo-Goo Shampoo (clarifying shampoo with a pH of 9 and Color Disruptor treatment followed by porosity equalization, either a leave in treatment or an Olaplex treatment, depending on the health and integrity of the hair.
2. The Highlight I found that matching the new growth (grey) with tiny (baby lights) highlights to break the line of demarcation works best. Highlighting right at the line of demarcation through the mid shaft and ends with bleach lightener being careful to avoid the new growth. Low and slow is the moto here. Low peroxide and plenty of time. The highlighted strands need to be lightened to a clean level 10 without the use of heat, so stay patient.
3. Equalizing Porosity and Toning.
Shampoo out the lightener and apply an Olaplex treatment to equalize porosity and rebuild the disulfide bonds that were broken during the lightening process and before applying a grey, silvery, ash colored toner.
4. Blow dry and style.
The plan doesn’t stop here. Now we discuss at home care.
A Sample Weekly Routine
Mon Wash with Olaplex Purple (2 minutes, use a timer). Follow with a hydrating conditioner.
Tue Hydrating mask (15 min steam in the shower). No styling heat.
Wed Rest day – gentle brush, apply a light serum to ends.
Thu Regular sulfate free shampoo + conditioner.
Fri At Home Gloss treatment (optional, if shine feels dull).
Sat Hydrating mask + protective UV spray before outdoor time.
Sun No wash – just a quick leave in spray and a few drops of serum.
5. Schedule a follow up appointment in 8-12 weeks for Tone and Treat. You may need additional lightening to continue to soften the line of demarcation or simply a toner to refresh and a deep conditioning to preserve the integrity of the hair. This is customized for each person and their goals. Your stylist can help guide you towards the next service necessary. Some may be willing and able to Tone and Treat at home, I don’t recommend DIYing highlights at home. This is the plan I used for someone who wants to move away from root touch ups all together and embrace their grey in 18-24 months. I know you have questions leave a reply to this article and I’m happy to help.
